Despite all the negative reviews Franck has received (most of which targeted its service and price), I had a very charming dinner here just a few evenings ago. The prices are still up there, but the service has improved dramatically since the restaurant’s earlier days, while its ambience remained as bewitching as always with its Jazzy lounge music, exposed light bulbs, and dark wood furnishings. And the food? Fantastique.
这里的菜单以法文手写在黑板上，不过就算你看不懂也别担心 － 服务生很愿意为客人们翻译。负责我们这一桌的中国小伙子已在 Franck 工作 4 年，对每道菜都了若指掌而且乐于讲解，点菜完全不是问题。
The menu du jour, scribbled in French on two blackboards, offers a selection of hearty dishes that changes according to the availability of ingredients. Our waiter, a young Chinese man who has been working at the restaurant for 4 years, was knowledgable about the details of each dish and happy to explain.
当晚的大餐从 La Grand Charcuterie (290元) 开始，木製的砧板上堆满了各式冷切火腿、肉派 (terrine de campagne)、鹅肝 (foie gras confit)、腌小黄瓜、和焦糖洋葱。虽然我平常尽量少点鹅肝，不过 Franck 做的非常好吃，一块摆在眼前实在难以拒绝。
The feast began with La Grand Charcuterie (290 RMB), which featured a few types of cold cuts, terrine de campagne, foie gras confit, pickled baby cucumbers, and caramelized onions. Why yes, it’s a lovely platter. I’ve been cutting down my foie gras consumption lately, but Franck’s rendition is difficult to resist.
主菜上桌时，我先嚐了一口 Tartare de Boeuf (180元)。手切生牛肉以蛋黄、芥末酱、水瓜柳、盐、胡椒、和辣酱做了提味，风味大胆而和谐，牛肉原始的口感也令人惊艳。
Moving on to the main courses, I first tried a bite of Tartare de Boeuf (180 RMB) and was bedazzled. A slab of raw beef was chopped au couteau, its texture well preserved and its delicate flavor accentuated with egg yolk, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, capers, and a dash of hot sauce. The flavors were bold and exciting, yet in harmony with one other.
嫰烤猪排 Côtes de Porc Poêlées (300元) 也非常出色。Franck 用的是吃橡木果长大的西班牙伊比利黑猪 (black Iberian pigs)，世界上最棒的火腿之一 jamón ibérico 就是用这种猪只做成的。丰厚均匀的油花让肉质非常鲜嫩多汁，和马铃薯泥与香炒蘑菇一起入口，堪称完美。
I also loved Côtes de Porc Poêlées (300 RMB), or simply pork chops when translated to English. Franck uses black Iberian pigs from Spain, the same ones that forage for acorns and become jamón ibérico, some of the finest hams on earth. The even marbling of fat gives it a tender texture and juicy flavor. Served with mashed potatoes and sauteed mushrooms, perfect.
另外一道非常受欢迎的是香烤羊排 Carré d’Agneau Rôti (250元)。羊肉还保留着漂亮的粉红色，搭配百里香和大蒜的香气，令人食指大动。
Also very well-received at our table was Carré d’Agneau Rôti (250 RMB), roasted rack of lamb . Browned on the exterior but still lusciously pink on the inside, the meat was tender and wonderfully fragrant with thyme and garlic. Served with warm lentil salad.
Risotto de Séliole (280元) 的鱼煎的过乾，不过义大利炖饭的奢侈风味和弹牙口感（米心夹生但不过硬！） 让我忍不住一口接着一口把它往嘴里送。
As for Risotto de Séliole (280 RMB), the fish was a bit dry but the risotto was love-at-first-bite. Luxuriously creamy yet firm at the core, I could not help but put yet another spoonful in my mouth.
烤鸡 Poulet Rôti (180元) 是当晚最普通的一道，虽然做的不差，不过跟餐桌上其他料理比较起来就十分逊色了。
Poulet Rôti (180 RMB) was the least impressive of all. The chicken was fine but did not leave a memorable mark amidst all the wonderful dishes we had on the table.
由于之前说错了话（细节省略），我们的服务生送上了一份焦糖冰淇淋 Glace au Caramel 做为赔礼。浓郁的焦糖冰淇淋搭配一小撮海盐，我们两三下就把它解决了。
To apologize for a not so well-received remark he made earlier that evening, our waiter sent over a cup of Glace au Caramel (not on the menu) which we happily devoured. Hint: sprinkle a bit of fleur du sel to accentuate the sweetness in the ice-cream.
製作起来耗费功夫的 Tarte Tatin (90元) 是一种倒过来的苹果派 － 烘烤时派皮放在苹果上，而非像一般苹果派一样将苹果包裹住。Franck 的 tarte tatin 搭配了有苹果利口酒味道的鲜奶油，我个人是还挺喜欢的，不过同桌的朋友们好像对这个甜点不是特别满意。
Tarte Tatin (90 RMB) is a dessert best described as an upside-down pie, in which the pastry crust is baked on top on the apples instead of the other way around (click here to read the story behind). I quite enjoyed Franck’s tarte tatin, which was served with an apple liqueur-flavored crème fraîche and adorned with a sprig of vanilla, though the rest of my table didn’t seem to be as receptive to this dish.
Nougat Glacé (90元) 倒是大受欢迎。浓郁的牛奶冻糕里加了蛋白饼、蜂蜜、覆盆子、榛果、和奶油杏仁糖，这个组合足够征服所有爱吃甜点的舌头。
Nougat Glacé (90 RMB), on the other hand, was welcomed by all. The indulgently creamy block was laced with meringue, honey, raspberries, hazelnuts, and nougats – a combination that would easily swoon anyone with a sweet tooth.
Mousse au Chocolat (60元) 也是一个经典的法式甜点，不过 Franck 的巧克力慕司里加入了大量的黑巧克力，所以味道较苦。这应该是一份很不错的甜点，可是吃到这里时我已饱到无福消受了。
Mousse au Chocolat (60 RMB) is another French classic, and the version at Franck has a very high dark chocolate content and thus more bitter. It was a fine cup, but by this point it was too rich for me to take.
酒足饭饱的我们撑着肚皮，晃着脑袋，非常满意的离开了 Franck。在这里的晚餐吃的非常愉快，而且几杯酒下肚后特别容易被这里的惬意氛围给感染。即使是平日晚上 Franck 的生意还是如此之好，显然不只是我一个人迷上了这家餐厅。要不是为了注意腰线和钱包，这还真是个应该要常来的地方呢…
We left Franck full bellied and thoroughly satisfied. There’s a warmness about this French brasserie, the kind that is especially contagious (especially under the influence of some wine), and the fact that it was almost full on a weekday evening suggests that at least a good chunk of Shanghai is charmed. This is certainly a place to frequent if I weren’t watching my waistline and wallet…
电话：158 2167 6767
营业时间：[週二－五] 6pm-10:30pm [週六日] 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm (週一休)
〉〉上海 Table No. 1
〉〉上海 Song Fang Maison de Thé 宋芳茶馆（中英对照）
本文转载自 Sugared & Spiced